THE ATTEMPT
Here was the challenge – a hastily scrambled sketch-map showing a possible route to the summit of the mysterious “Ben’s Loins” – a majestic, soaring pinnacle, admired by many, but as yet, ascended by none. This was the goal, but how to attain it? An expedition had to be arranged….
THE TEAM
The task fell to Williams, as leader, to hand pick a crew of able mountaineers for the trek that would lay ahead. It would be tough, we had to know they would be up to it. But who are they going to invite?
Gilmore had been high, higher than most. Greig had been high, but maybe, not high enough. Coleman had been high, but hadn’t enjoyed it. Cooper had been high, but had a reputation for being a loner and occasionally, incomprehensible. Kirkpatrick had been high, but since he’d ascended the wrong summit no one was guite sure how high that was. Hull hadn’t been nearly high enough. Minshull was too high.
Further research yielded the fact that all these had, in fact been already recruited to other expeditions.
Williams considered the problem carefully, unfortunately he was down to the last name on his list, Fitton, the unknown quantity, reputed to be green, but enthusiastic.
Fitton was invited to join the expedition.
PREPARATION
It was decided to dispense with local bearers, as the natives were not particularly friendly, and the mules were not available to carry the 11/2 tons of cheese-and-marmite sandwiches and 4000 Mars bars necessary to feed a standard team of sherpas for that length of expedition. Therefore it was an unsupported, heavily laden team of two that set out from base-camp.
The start was delayed slightly, owing to timing problems, and just as the two were about to leave news reached the camp that a rival, larger and better equipped team were ascending ace were
Ben’s Loins from the west face and were already several hours ahead. This was terrible news, was the whole expedition about to be gazumped? Indeed as the two gritted their teeth and began the trek to their chosen starting place, they could see the tail of the rival group disappear over the first col on the west face.
THE ASCENT
Camp 1 was set up at the base of the south face, amidst the ruin of a previous shelter. Refreshments were partaken of.
Then the ascent was begun. The first section was relatively trivial and the expedition members bantered to keep their spirits up and conserve energy for the gruelling bits ahead. The going got somewhat rougher on the plateau, where the snow caused problems, and routes were planned, discussed, changed, argued about, planned again, and finally totally disregarded and it was each man for himself as they made their way independently to the start of the final ascent. At this point there was no sign of the other expedition.
The last bit was tough, really tough, it would sort the the sheep. Williams strode ahead, his mind on the summit. Fitton trudged behind, his mind on his aching legs.
Eventually both attained summit, its rocky cairn surrounded by a crust of ice. Careful inspection and detailed revealed total lack of any other human footprints, they had truly made the first ascent of Ben’s Loins. Congratulations were mutually offered, and accepted, and preparations made for the descent.
THE REST
Just as the route down was being considered, a problem arose. It was noticed that there was, to the west another peak, heavily snow-clad and connected to Ben’s Loins by an extensive plateau. The guestion arose, was this or was this not a higher summit than Ben’s Loins. If by any chance it was, it had to be conquered for the reputation of the expedition to be maintained. Williams unstrapped his ice-axe and prepared to use it. Fitton unstrapped his ice-axe and tried to work out how it worked. Williams had to demonstrate, unsuccessfully. After a lot of trudging through various consistencies of snow and ice the second peak was attained. It was in fact measured to be 14m higher than Ben’s Loins, and was officially claimed for Britain and named Ben’s Umb??????
The true descent then began through virgin snow, this testifying to the incompetence of the other expedition, who had in fact got nowhere near the summit, having been discouraged by the adverse weather conditions. After some bog-trotting and a short trek, base-camp was reached, and both sat down to a well deserved meal.
Janet.
